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Even furniture that looks like a basket case can be recovered by dissolving the cracked shellac surface with denatured alcohol. Be sure to try on the piece first. Identify the type of finish. Most furniture made before 1920 had a protective shellac finish. Over time shellac darkens, cracks and needs to be removed. Chemical strippers can be too harsh for this project, so use denatured alcohol instead. It soaks into the shellac and dissolves the finish so it can be cleaned. Note: This technique will not affect polyurethane, which forms a plastic-like layer that must be sanded away. Old varnish or shellac can be identified by a cracked black finish. Crackling occurs with age and temperature changes. Polyurethane does not deteriorate in this way.

Begin the surface stripping process by laying down plenty of newspaper to protect the floor from drips and spills. Wear rubber gloves and keep an extra pair on hand in case the originals get too sticky from dissolved shellac. Make sure you are working in a well-ventilated area. Remove drawers or doors and reload separately. Unscrew all hardware, knobs and hinges, reset if necessary.

Always work on a horizontal plane. For a healthy amount of denatured alcohol on the surface. Use paper towels to gently spread the alcohol. Wait several minutes for the alcohol to soak into the finish. Wipe off the alcohol and dissolved finish with paper towels. Apply more alcohol as needed to stubborn areas. A soft brush is helpful in removing tough spots. Make sure the color is even. Repeat the same process for the drawer faces. Lay the drawers on their sides so the drawer faces are horizontal. Do this for the front and sides of the furniture as well.

Once you have removed all of the old finish from the furniture, use a mild detergent and water solution to wash all treated surfaces and make sure they are clean. Dry the surfaces with a clean cloth. If desired, prep surface with fine steel wool to smooth grain. Then use a small brush or clean cloth to remove the last bits of steel wool from the wood.

Apply several coats of antique oil finish to the surface of the wood, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Pour in a small amount of oil to work with and spread each layer of oil evenly over the surface of the wood with a clean, lint-free cloth. With the exception of the last layer of oil, lightly polish the surface of the furniture with steel wool after each layer of oil dries.

Remove old finish before repairing any loose teeth, scratches, or fixtures. But be careful not to repair the surface so much that it loses its fine, aged character and individuality. Fix and polish broken or tarnished props, or replace them with reproductions to complete the revival.

Before restoring, make sure the furniture is in good structural condition. If there are matching pieces, give them the same treatment. Even furniture that includes small details in relief can be restored without problems with the help of a brush. To remove old finish from hard-to-reach surfaces, use a soft toothbrush. It easily fits into small nooks and crannies. Let the alcohol soak in well to dissolve the finish.

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