The word denim is believed to have evolved from a French fabric known as “serge de Nîmes”. Nîmes cloth was a twill-woven cloth made from a mixture of silk and wool; however; the mixture of fabrics of this fabric casts some doubt on its origin since Denim has always been made with cotton. Since the mid-1950s, denim has become a wardrobe staple for American youth. Denim represents a strong cotton twill weave, in which the weft passes under two or more warp fibers, producing the familiar identifiable diagonal ribbing on the reverse side of the cloth, which distinguishes duck denim from cotton. Denim was traditionally colored blue with indigo dye to make blue jeans, although denim represents a different, lighter weight cotton fabric. Although denim jeans are a favorite among America’s youth, they have changed in style and meaning over the years. In general, Denim designers are experimenting with fabric and garment details, including embellishments, to add value to their garments. New accessories are being incorporated in the form of patches, appliqués, rhinestones and glitter.

The process of adding value to this legendary provider improved from time to time by devising some new methods, such as:

CHANGING THE SPRAY OF COLOR AND METALLIC SHINE IN DENIM GARMENTS

Adding value allows for substantially higher profits relative to the money spent imparting the value. It can be functional or aesthetic. Functional value added may not work more effectively in the garment. In many cases, the garment may not look good if it is not treated to add value. The aesthetic added value is a cosmetic and ornamentation treatment. It attracts attention and you can see the attractive results as soon as possible. This type of added value is governed by the latest “trends” and consumer preferences. The color spray gives an aesthetically attractive ‘cast’, which gives it a “consumer taste” value.

SOFTENERS SHOULD BE USED FOR A BULKY FEEL IN DENIM GARMENTS

“Bulky” or “flat and firm” has to do with aesthetics and personal taste, as there is no shortage of finishes for such attributes. These finishes are generally applied wet-on-wet at the end of the garment wash by the extract method. Therefore, it is imperative to select a softener/lubricant that is exhaustible for best garment performance. It is also important to maintain the proper conditions, such as pH, temperature and exhaust time, while applying, to transfer the maximum amount of softener/lubricant to the garment from the treatment liquor. Said products can be cationic softeners, non-renewable polyethylene, microaminosilicone for flexibility, macroaminosilicone for surface smoothness, etc. It is necessary to prepare a fabric atlas to assess the degree of volume with the type of softeners and their concentrations. Also, some combination of softeners can show an improved effect immediately.

APPROACH TO THE EFFECTS OF GENTLE WASHING IN DENIM GARMENTS DYED WITH SULFUR

Garment washing can affect the whiteness level of your garments, as they may appear dull or yellow after processing. Most clothes washers add bleach to the process to ensure a bright white finished product. Be sure to determine the costs involved and include them in the cost of your product. There are many special effects such as weathering, stonewashing, acid washing, and wear and tear that can be produced by garment washers. These effects, which are very popular, have their own drawbacks. They are expensive, have higher fallout rates, and are generally harsher on fabrics. Talk to your clothes washer about prices and what to expect from the process you choose to do.

INK DENIM GARMENTS WITHOUT CHANGING THE INDIGO SHADE

Dyeing is accomplished by applying direct/reactive dyes. In the case of direct dyes, the second application would be that of dye fixative for adequate solidity. In the case of reagents, the chemical fixer goes along with the distuff. After application, the treated garment is air dried or tumble dried for proper fastness. If the dyeing was done by the dip method, the dye would be everywhere. However, if the target is a localized area, a spray method is used. In either case, dyeing, as the term indicates, is done very lightly to achieve a particular shade, be it general or localized. If the indigo doesn’t change hue, it would look like a print with a sharp edge. When the tone changes from trendy gradient, the effect looks more aesthetically appealing and is considered desirable. The change in tone should be gradual and not abrupt.

IMPORTANCE OF OZONE RESISTANCE IN INDIGO GARMENTS

Oxidizing agents have the property of attacking the chromophore group of the distuff and destroying-discharging the color. Potassium permanganate is a well known chemical that is widely used for indigo discharge on denim garments. However, potassium permanganate is used where a flush is required and the ultimate purpose is to add value. Ozone is another strong oxidizing agent that could release indigo into denim. Otherwise, the folds of the folded denim garment have a relatively higher exposure to atmospheric ozone than the rest of the garment, which is protected by virtue of the fact that the garments are stacked. This results in a localized discharge of indigo in the folded marks. There are inorganic and organic ozone-seavengers, which protect the indigo in denim garments from ozone attack and thus control loss of value. Many buyers ask for seavenger ozone denim/garment finishes.

EFFECTS OF TREATMENT WITH PERLITA-CELLULASE ON DENIM GARMENTS

Perlite used in denim washing is a high-temperature expanded version of a naturally occurring mineral in the form of 1.5mm-sized granules. The perlite treatment combined with the enzymatic treatment for smoothness, shine and slightly worn surface. Perlite can reduce enzyme dosage and improve abrasion. However, the abrasion is quite light, which is achieved with pumice stone and only with cellulose. Depending on the degree of abrasion required, the cellulase-perlite treatment could take from 60 to 120 minutes using a ratio of bath and about 100g perlite per kg of garment. Since perlite dust causes sensitization and allergies when inhaled, some standard protective care should be taken during manufacturing, packaging, storage, transportation, material handling, and use. Perlite must be sought first before cellulose and other chemicals and then the machine must run for minutes with water.

DYE WITH WHITE DISCHARGE EFFECT ON DENIM GARMENTS

The standard blast/discharge/dye route is quite elaborate, in light of the three effects that will be imparted on the same garment. There have been shortcuts, which can be right/wrong/clever. If the dyeing is done in blasted/discharged areas, it is obviously still a spray method. However, if the tint is global, it follows the tint path. The process begins with the manual shot-blasting of the gray garment, followed by de-sizing and bio-polishing. After the garment is dried, a dye spray is applied followed by air/machine drying and finishing. For dyeing by the dye method, the biopolished garment can be dyed wet-on-wet followed by finishing and drying.

In the case of white flow staining, the course would begin with desizing-biopulido on gray garment, bleaching with peroxide after biopolishing being optional. After the garment is dried, a spray of potassium permanganate is applied to the areas where the white discharge is directed. After air drying for about 10-15 minutes, a neutralization step is given which consists of providing acetic acid, followed by hot and cold rinses. In the case of spray dyeing, the garment will need to be dried first, while for general dyeing, the dyeing method could be followed wet-on-wet. Finally the finishing and drying would complete the process.

OBTAINING THE REVERSE EFFECT ON DENIM IN THE UNLOADING PROCESS

In the spraying process, first apply the neutralizer where you want the resistance effect, and then spray potassium permanganate on the applied portion and surrounding area. Then, neutralize the garment to remove the potassium permanganate. Gives a halo effect to denim garments.