Although almost the smallest country in South America, Uruguay obviously has a big heart when it comes to gay visitors. Bordered by Brazil to the north and Argentina to the west, Uruguay has survived competition from Buenos Aires and Rio de Janeiro to become the favorite spot for gay vacationers from South America and now the world.
With a territory of only 175 square kilometers and a national population of 3.5 million inhabitants, of which almost fifty percent live in the capital city of Montevideo, beautiful sandy beaches and rolling hills in the interior, Uruguay offers a variety of vacation activities to this new wave of tourists.
Five years ago, this month in 2003, the federal government passed a law that protects members of sexual minorities from physical and printed homophobic abuse. This was followed in November 2007 by the recognition of same-sex civil unions at the national level, the first country in South America to allow homosexual unions. The legal age of consent is eighteen and homosexual acts in public are still frowned upon, but the general attitude in Uruguay is very favorable to homosexuals.
The cities of Montevideo and Colonia plus the seaside resort of Punta del Este —Star of the Costa Dorada—is where most of the gay and gay-friendly businesses can be found. Although the Punta del Este riviera is little known to North Americans, it has star-studded drawing power and rivals many other established gay destinations among the savvy gay jet-set looking for somewhere a little different from the norm.
This small country has honestly earned its nickname of Uru-Gay and the first time you visit it will allow you to understand how it came about.
The capital city, Montevideo, is rich in Spanish history from the 18th century when it was founded as a military stronghold and the Ciudad Vieja offers many examples of the original buildings erected by the first settlers. This is the trendiest neighborhood in the city and comes to life after dark as Montevideo’s entertainment hub. Among this historic neighborhood can also be found a recent addition of the Park of Sexual Diversity and the Monument to the Persecution of Gays and Lesbians inaugurated in February 2005 in recognition of the Nazi persecution of gays and lesbians. It is located on Calle Policia Vieja, between Plaza de la Constitución and Plaza Independencia. This is the first monument of its kind in South America and the fourth in the world after Amsterdam, New York and San Francisco. This was a great achievement that the local gay community is extremely proud to have started and another demonstration of the gay-friendly Uru-Gay people. Not in vain, here you will also find many gay and gay-friendly bars, restaurants and shops that surround the park.
Throughout the Old City, along cobblestone streets and among beautiful parks and squares, there are many places of historical interest that provide hours of walking pleasure and, of course, gastronomic delights. The Port Market is a collection of restaurants, bars and open-air cafes offering wines and local culinary specialties. A local custom that will always please is Medio y Medio, a complimentary glass of local champagne and wine (red or white) to be enjoyed while perusing the menu. Of course, Uruguay is famous for La Parrilla, local grilled meats, accompanied by a wide variety of locally grown vegetable sides to complement your meal. You’ll also be pleasantly surprised at how good and cheap the local wines turn out to be with a little tip from your waiter.
Next to the Mercado del Puerto is the pedestrian street Pérez Castellano, which allows you to enjoy the views and shops without noisy traffic and travel back in time through this old Spanish settlement in peace and quiet. Outside the Old City, 18 de Julio Street commemorates Uruguay’s Independence Day. It is a very long walk through the heart of Montevideo and almost all the main attractions are close to this street. It is full of parks, squares, monuments and impressive architectural examples of belle epoque and art deco buildings. The City of Montevideo publishes a very good map with a walking tour route that will allow you to see everything in just a couple of rest days walking and stopping to enjoy the views.
In Plaza Independencia, in the heart of the city, is the Placid Salvo gay bar and, coincidentally, also the Canadian Embassy. Although Montevideo’s gay bars don’t open until late at night, the maple leaf flag flies on the edge of this plaza 24/7! The other gay bar, Cain, the oldest gay bar in the city, is located at Cerro Largo 1833 in Arenal Grande. This bar is housed in a huge heritage building and is multi-level with three dance floors and is the most popular with locals and visitors. Although there are only two gay bars in the city, there are a multitude of gay friendly establishments to enjoy as well with a mix of straight, gay, bisexual and transgender patrons. Be prepared for interesting moments from late night to early morning in this vibrant city.
Of course, any city in the southern hemisphere bordered by the Atlantic Ocean on one side and a large river estuary on the other is sure to have some spectacular beaches, and Montevideo is no exception. Close to the city center is Playa Ramírez and a short bus or taxi ride will take you to Playa Pocitos or Playa Malvin. Pack plenty of suntan lotion as the rays here are very strong and during the winter months there is very little cloud cover and temperatures average in the 30s. However, you will find plenty of beach bars and outdoor cafes in case you need to find some shade and refreshments.
Shopping in Montevideo offers a wide variety of options and prices are very low compared to Canadian prices. There are big chain stores, small boutiques, local craft shops, markets and of course leather factories. Make sure your plastic is ready for a bang as there will be plenty of must-haves and irresistibles to discover as you stroll through the city’s charming streets.
Finding gay accommodation in Montevideo is a challenge, but Hostal La Puerto Negra is a charming gay bed and breakfast located in a residential neighborhood within walking distance of the city center and the Old City. The rooms are large, the historic building is charming, and the rates are very reasonable. Otherwise, the options are very gay-friendly and most room rates in Montevideo are very affordable depending on the style of accommodation and location you choose.
Outside of Montevideo, the small town of Colonia is just a two and a half hour bus ride away and will provide a complete change of pace from the big city. Here you will find Portuguese-style architecture and cobblestone streets reminiscent of Lisbon, Portugal. The winding streets and colorful houses are laid out in a different pattern than most Spanish colonial towns, and are a joy to explore. The historic quarter, Barrio Histórico, on a small peninsula jutting out into the river, was named a World Heritage Site in 1995. The city’s history dates back to 1745 and you can see a historic drawbridge built at that time, the El Faro lighthouse built in 1857, or visit the Sunday market in the Plaza Mayor. A day or two in Colonia is a perfect way to see another side of Uruguay’s unique appeal and history. The city produces a wide variety of local textiles and has a free trade zone that improves already low prices.
Traveling northeast for about 140 kilometers from Montevideo brings you to the luxury resort town of Punta del Este on the Atlantic coast. This small coastal town of just over ten thousand inhabitants grows to a seasonal population of around one million people during the months of December through February. The beautiful beaches, casinos and entertainment attract many regulars and newcomers making this South American Riviera a must see. The gay community is growing and now includes hotels, bars, restaurants and shops for a complete gay vacation experience. The beaches here offer everything from sailing with the Atlantic breeze on the calm waters to relaxing and tanning or surfing the waves. No trip to Uruguay is complete without a visit to Punta del Este and some Monte Carlo-style fun!
For a small country, you will be amazed at all that Uru-Gay has to offer and what an unspoiled and unknown gay vacation park you have found.
There is also a very experienced GLBT travel company that specializes in gay vacations in Uruguay but based in the United States and can be found at gay-uruguay.com that provides assistance with a vacation anywhere in this small country with the great gay welcome mat They can arrange special accommodations, tours and activities to suit your personal idea of the perfect gay vacation.
This winter enjoy a unique vacation in the southern hemisphere and discover why everyone talks about one of the smallest countries in South America with the biggest heart and welcome for gay vacationers.